A Little Church with a Big Story: El Santuario de Chimayó

I had heard about the little church in Chimayó, New Mexico, and knew it was supposed to be special. Still, I wasn’t quite prepared for how much I would love it.

El Santuario de Chimayó sits along the High Road to Taos, surrounded by the rugged beauty of northern New Mexico. From the outside, it doesn’t look particularly grand. It’s a small adobe church with simple lines and a weathered appearance that seems to belong exactly where it is.

But there is something about this place.

The present chapel was completed in 1816, but the land had been considered sacred long before the church was built. The area was important to the Tewa people, who believed the surrounding springs and landscape had healing properties. Later, Spanish settlers brought Catholic traditions to the area, creating the layers of history and faith that are still part of Chimayó today.

The story behind the sanctuary is almost as fascinating as the church itself.

According to tradition, in 1810 a local man named Bernardo Abeyta saw a mysterious light coming from the ground on Good Friday. When he investigated, he discovered a crucifix buried in the earth.

The crucifix was taken to a nearby church, but the next morning it was gone. Somehow, it had returned to the spot where Abeyta had found it.

The crucifix was moved again.

Again, it returned.

Eventually, people decided that the crucifix wanted to remain in Chimayó, and Abeyta petitioned for a chapel to be built at the site. That chapel eventually became the sanctuary that stands there today.

I love stories like this—not necessarily because I know what I believe about them, but because they become part of the character of a place. And this little church has had more than 200 years for its stories to settle into the walls.

Inside, the sanctuary is intimate and beautifully decorated with traditional New Mexican religious folk art. The carved and painted santos, the altar, and the handmade details gave me plenty to look at. Nothing felt overly polished or grand. It felt personal and deeply rooted in the culture of the area.

One of the most unusual parts of the sanctuary is a tiny room called El Pocito, or “the little well.” A small hole in the floor contains earth that pilgrims have traditionally taken for its healing properties.

The tradition goes back generations, and people still come here seeking healing and comfort.

There is something especially moving about that. Whether someone believes the earth itself has healing power or simply finds comfort in the faith and ritual surrounding it, people have been coming here for a very long time with their hopes, worries, gratitude, and prayers.

I also visited the nearby Holy Child of Atocha Chapel, often called the children’s chapel. It was smaller and quieter, but filled with its own interesting details. I loved wandering around the grounds and taking in all the little details.

And that’s really what I enjoyed most about Chimayó. It wasn’t just the church itself. It was the whole setting—the adobe buildings, the courtyards, the mountains in the distance, and the feeling that I was standing in a place where generations of people had come before me.

I know I didn’t see everything.

There are other historic chapels in the area, and I didn’t explore nearly as much of Chimayó as I could have. In fact, learning more about the history afterward made me realize just how much I missed.

Maybe that’s okay.

Sometimes a place leaves you with a little unfinished business.

I’d like to return during Holy Week someday and experience the pilgrimage to El Santuario de Chimayó. Thousands of people make their way to the sanctuary on foot, some walking many miles as an act of faith, gratitude, or a search for healing. I think there would be something powerful about being part of that journey—not simply arriving at the church, but experiencing the walking, the quiet moments, and the shared purpose along the way.

For now, though, I’m grateful I stopped.

I went expecting to see an old New Mexico church. Instead, I found a place where history, art, faith, and tradition have been woven together for generations.

Perhaps that’s what I loved most about Chimayó. It reminded me that sometimes the places that stay with us aren’t the grandest or most spectacular. Sometimes they’re the quiet ones that invite us to slow down, look a little closer, and wonder about all the people who stood there before us.

I have a feeling I’ll be standing there again someday.

The Magic of Wandering: From Pueblo Lands to Mountain Forests

Some days are made for wandering. I left the house early with a full tank of gas, a list of places I wanted to see in the Jemez Mountains, and no idea what surprises the day would hold.

My first stop was the Jemez Pueblo Visitor Center. This was my first visit onto a reservation, and I wasn’t prepared for how beautiful the land would be. The red cliffs seemed to rise out of nowhere, and the landscape felt both peaceful and ancient. Before continuing on, I wandered through the visitor center, explored the small museum, admired a colorful courtyard mural, and found a few souvenirs for my grandsons.

Next on my list was Gilman Tunnels. Another beautiful surprise! I really had no idea of what to expect. A woman I met in a shop in Santa Fe suggested I stop there if I was in the area. The tunnels were about five miles off of a main road that meandered along a small river and into the foothills of the mountains. The road narrowed into a one-lane road carrying two-way traffic. Thankfully, I never met another vehicle. As I rounded the final curve, the first of two tunnels appeared, seemingly carved straight through solid rock. It was hard to imagine trains once passing through these narrow openings. The tunnels were blasted through Precambrian granite in the 1920s so logging trains could reach Guadalupe Box Canyon. After I had gone through the second tunnel, there was enough room to pull over, get out, and look down into the canyon with a small waterfall and river running through. I was a little nervous about where this road went and if I would find another place with enough space to turn around, so I went ahead and turned around. As I headed back toward the highway, I couldn’t help but think… It’s pretty amazing what you might find just a few miles off the main road.

Eventually I rolled into Jemez Springs, a tiny mountain town dotted with art galleries, hot springs, and old southwestern charm. It felt like the kind of place where people linger instead of hurry. I wandered through a couple of art galleries before stopping at the local saloon for lunch. I ordered New Mexican tacos, curious how they would compare to the Tex-Mex version I’d always known. The meat wasn’t seasoned the way I expected, and instead of being smothered in cheese, they were served with chile sauce on the side. They even came with black olives—a combination I’d never had before but ended up loving.

The next part of my trip was completely magical. As the road climbed higher into the mountains, the scenery began to change. The red rock gradually gave way to towering pines, shimmering aspens, and evergreen trees that looked as if they belonged on a Christmas card. Until that day, I hadn’t realized this side of New Mexico even existed. Now this Texas girl was in her happy place. I hadn’t even realized how much I’d missed the smell of pine after spending more than a month in the high desert. I pulled into a small parking area where a Boy Scout troop was gathered in a circle nearby. I tried not to disturb them as I walked a little way down a trail, found a fallen log to sit on, and just breathed in the cool mountain air and the forest smells. The towering pines reminded me of the forests back home. I kicked off my shoes and put my feet in the grass for a bit before I got back on the road.

For a few quiet minutes, I forgot all about my itinerary. I just sat there with my feet in the grass, breathing in the mountain air, grateful to have stumbled onto a little piece of home in the middle of New Mexico.