A Little Church with a Big Story: El Santuario de Chimayó

I had heard about the little church in Chimayó, New Mexico, and knew it was supposed to be special. Still, I wasn’t quite prepared for how much I would love it.

El Santuario de Chimayó sits along the High Road to Taos, surrounded by the rugged beauty of northern New Mexico. From the outside, it doesn’t look particularly grand. It’s a small adobe church with simple lines and a weathered appearance that seems to belong exactly where it is.

But there is something about this place.

The present chapel was completed in 1816, but the land had been considered sacred long before the church was built. The area was important to the Tewa people, who believed the surrounding springs and landscape had healing properties. Later, Spanish settlers brought Catholic traditions to the area, creating the layers of history and faith that are still part of Chimayó today.

The story behind the sanctuary is almost as fascinating as the church itself.

According to tradition, in 1810 a local man named Bernardo Abeyta saw a mysterious light coming from the ground on Good Friday. When he investigated, he discovered a crucifix buried in the earth.

The crucifix was taken to a nearby church, but the next morning it was gone. Somehow, it had returned to the spot where Abeyta had found it.

The crucifix was moved again.

Again, it returned.

Eventually, people decided that the crucifix wanted to remain in Chimayó, and Abeyta petitioned for a chapel to be built at the site. That chapel eventually became the sanctuary that stands there today.

I love stories like this—not necessarily because I know what I believe about them, but because they become part of the character of a place. And this little church has had more than 200 years for its stories to settle into the walls.

Inside, the sanctuary is intimate and beautifully decorated with traditional New Mexican religious folk art. The carved and painted santos, the altar, and the handmade details gave me plenty to look at. Nothing felt overly polished or grand. It felt personal and deeply rooted in the culture of the area.

One of the most unusual parts of the sanctuary is a tiny room called El Pocito, or “the little well.” A small hole in the floor contains earth that pilgrims have traditionally taken for its healing properties.

The tradition goes back generations, and people still come here seeking healing and comfort.

There is something especially moving about that. Whether someone believes the earth itself has healing power or simply finds comfort in the faith and ritual surrounding it, people have been coming here for a very long time with their hopes, worries, gratitude, and prayers.

I also visited the nearby Holy Child of Atocha Chapel, often called the children’s chapel. It was smaller and quieter, but filled with its own interesting details. I loved wandering around the grounds and taking in all the little details.

And that’s really what I enjoyed most about Chimayó. It wasn’t just the church itself. It was the whole setting—the adobe buildings, the courtyards, the mountains in the distance, and the feeling that I was standing in a place where generations of people had come before me.

I know I didn’t see everything.

There are other historic chapels in the area, and I didn’t explore nearly as much of Chimayó as I could have. In fact, learning more about the history afterward made me realize just how much I missed.

Maybe that’s okay.

Sometimes a place leaves you with a little unfinished business.

I’d like to return during Holy Week someday and experience the pilgrimage to El Santuario de Chimayó. Thousands of people make their way to the sanctuary on foot, some walking many miles as an act of faith, gratitude, or a search for healing. I think there would be something powerful about being part of that journey—not simply arriving at the church, but experiencing the walking, the quiet moments, and the shared purpose along the way.

For now, though, I’m grateful I stopped.

I went expecting to see an old New Mexico church. Instead, I found a place where history, art, faith, and tradition have been woven together for generations.

Perhaps that’s what I loved most about Chimayó. It reminded me that sometimes the places that stay with us aren’t the grandest or most spectacular. Sometimes they’re the quiet ones that invite us to slow down, look a little closer, and wonder about all the people who stood there before us.

I have a feeling I’ll be standing there again someday.

Churches, Art, and a Musical Road: A Day on the Turquoise Trail

Before my day on the Turquoise Trail even began, I stumbled across one of the most unexpected things I’ve ever found on Route 66—a musical road! For about a quarter of a mile, special rumble strips play America the Beautiful as you drive over them at the speed limit. The first time, I was almost through it before I realized what I was hearing. Since the original signs marking the spot have been removed, I turned around and drove it again. Then I drove it a third time with the windows down, the A/C off, and my tires right on the rumble strips. Perfetto! The first time I ever experienced a musical road was during my years in Japan, so I was delighted to stumble upon one in Albuquerque.

You pick up the Turquoise Trail in Tijeras on the east side of Albuquerque. It’s a scenic byway (NM- 14) that runs from Albuquerque to Santa Fe through the Sandia Mountains. Native Americans mined turquoise here as far back as A.D. 900. Later, settlers also mined the area, giving the trail the name it still carries today.

I had barely started my drive when I saw the top of an old church with a small white cross against the blue sky. I just had to stop and take a look. Three people sat at a picnic table in front of the church having a snack. It turned out that they had spent the morning working on upkeep on the cemetery. I’m sure it was already close to 90 degrees, but they didn’t seem to mind the heat. They told me a little about the church, about the best place to eat along the Turquoise Trail, and about some other old churches along the way.

The San Antonio Mission Church, also known as Nuestro Señor de Mapimí Church, was built in 1886. It’s a small adobe church with a single white cross and has changed very little over the years. It wasn’t open, so I could only look at the outside and the grounds, but I was so glad that I stopped. It was just a quick look and a brief conversation with three strangers, but their warmth stayed with me as I continued on my way.

I drove on, following their directions to the next church about ten miles up the road. For this church, I had to wind up a little gravel road to the top of a hill. I would have driven right past it if not for their directions.. San Francisco de Asis Catholic Church was built in the 1830s to serve the miners and families of the first gold rush west of the Mississippi. To reach the church, I walked through a gate and along a path that meandered through a cemetery dotted with weathered wooden crosses. It felt wonderfully secluded. After the gold rush ended, the town gradually became a ghost town, and the church was abandoned before being rebuilt in 1960.

The next town on the trail was Madrid (pronounced Maa-drid), where the movie Wild Hogs was filmed. Until I talked with the church volunteers, I had no idea this was the town from the movie.

Madrid was such an artsy and quirky town. I had lunch at the Mine Shaft Tavern and wandered through several art galleries meeting and visiting with the artists in many of them. I was in a little bit of “hog” heaven.

One gallery featured the work of seven artists who are all friends, the youngest of whom is seventy-five. I think if I lived in this area, I would want to hang out with them. I left feeling so energized and inspired.

After I left Madrid, I lost my GPS connection and had to make the rest of the trip on my own. Lucky for me, it’s just a straight shot through to Santa Fe, but it was an unusual feeling to be completely on my own. I was reminded of traveling in my twenties with just an atlas and a general idea of where I was going. It felt kind of freeing to trust my instincts while following the directions of the people at the church to the next church in Cerrillos.

St. Joseph’s Catholic Church was established in 1884, but the current church was built in 1922. This time, the church was open. The historic artwork and stained glass were just beautiful. Most of the sculptures inside had a very Spanish and rustic feel. Outside there was an enclosed garden with a Pieta and other sculptures. The church is still active today.

The town of Cerrillos is a fun stop because it has an old west feel with dusty, dirt roads and an old, weathered hotel. During its heyday, it had 21 saloons and 4 hotels and was once considered a possible capital of New Mexico.

I drove on to Santa Fe and was pretty exhausted from all of the sightseeing in the heat. Even though I brought plenty of water, I felt dehydrated, so I headed home. All in all, a great day! There were still places I missed, but maybe that’s the beauty of a road like this. It gives me a reason to return.